The trussrod was inserted through the back of the neck and the channel filled with the Walnut "skunk stripe".
This manufacturing process was used regardless of whether it was a Maple or Rosewood fingerboard.
Some dealers simply go by the serial number, which you will discover can be far from accurate.First four digits are paired up, 09 is the model number for the Stratocaster, and 00 is the neck configuration, in his case a fretted Maple neck with a Rosewood fingerboard. 38 is the week, 9 stands for the year, 1979, and 3 is the day of the week, which is Wednesday.The '*' represents a middle digit that is either an 'X', a '-' or something that resembles a '1/2' or '1/4' fraction.My intent with this site is to educate those who are on the hunt for that last affordable vintage Fender Stratocaster.Have a read through and hopefully you will pickup a few things to better assert yourself in the late 70's Stratocasters buyer's market. M = Model or Manufacturer O = Operator N = Neck configuration W = Week Y = Year D = Day Neck Stamps: MMNN*WWYD Example: 0900*3893 - Found on the very end of the neck heel, if at all, in green or dark red ink.Large Letter Stamps: Not 100% sure what these mean, but I have a theory they were used to grade a body prior to recieving a finish. I have seen four A stamps on Natural finished bodies, and a trans-red with an A stamp. I have also seen a D, along with an A on a Sunburst body.This is just a theory, but if only A's were put on Natural finished guitars as an example, it could help determine if a guitar is refinished.So, you can't afford that '54 Strat, or that '64, or even that '74 for that matter.Your last chance to own a vintage Fender Stratocaster is with the guitars of the late 1970's.ALOT of "1979" Strats with S9 serial numbers I've recently seen online appear to be from 1980, including the Strat I bought.Body and Neck: All bodies are Ash, and usually a heavy piece.