While Octo Print can run on pretty much anything, the Raspberry Pi appears to be the platform of choice for most people.
At it’s pretty hard to turn down the Pi Zero W as an Octo Print host, so that’s what I decided to go with.
While I had hoped to do this project without permanently attaching anything to the Printrboard, I had to suck it up and solder the BEC module’s leads to the underside of the PCB where the main power connects.
The other side of the BEC module has a standard servo connector, which I was able to plug directly into the Pi’s GPIO header.
After renabling HDMI and hooking it up to a display, sure enough it would get to a certain stage and then restart.
Using my multimeter inline between the Pi and the Printrboard I was able to see that for a brief moment the current jumped up into the neighborhood of 280 m A right before it restarted; obviously just a bit more than the Printrboard could handle.
The Pi itself is screwed into a 3D printed mount I designed.
The keen-eyed reader may notice that the Pi mount has nut traps on the flanges; originally I planned on drilling holes in the case and screwing the mount down from the other side.
But right before I popped the holes through the steel, I realized the screw heads would interfere with the movement of the bed so I had to settle for double-sided tape.
If you’re using the Raspberry Pi, there is a pre-made SD image called “Octo Pi” maintained by Guy Sheffer that contains the latest Octo Print and all ancillary packages to give you a turn-key experience as soon as you pop the card in. Even if you’ve never touched a Raspberry Pi or Linux before, you’ll have no problems getting the software up and running.
The first time you connect to the Octo Print web interface, you’re presented with a very slick setup wizard that walks you though the basics of getting your printer setup.